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Full Length Glamour Portraits

A lesson produced by Web Photo School

Many portrait photographers find studio lighting overly challenging and frustrating to contend with. This is no doubt due to lack of experience. For the most part, studio portrait lighting doesn’t need to be that complicated. If you have a few basic lighting tools and a basic lighting strategy, you can create professional-looking images for your clients.

For this shoot, we went for two looks: one where the lighting equipment is visible within the edges of the frame (a technique gaining in popularity), and one with just the model, the foreground and the background.



(Click on any image below for an enlarged view.)

Topics Covered:

  • Positioning and Modifying the Main Light
  • Adding a Grid Spot
  • Bouncing the Main Light
  • Same Gear, Different Positioning
  • Controlling Spill on a Rim Light
  • Adding a Main Light After the Rim Light
  • Bouncing from the Rim Light
  • Comparisons

Equipment Used:

Camera/Media

     

    Positioning and Modifying the Main Light
    Our first lighting step for this photograph was to set up a 5' OctoDome® with the StarFlash® 150. We positioned the OctoDome at about 90 degrees camera left, raised the LiteStand to about five feet, and slightly angled it down pointing towards the model's face.

    Because we wanted to have the model facing the right-hand side of the set and have the light fall off on her left side, we moved the light as far around as we could without going beyond 90 degrees. We had the model stand a good distance from the backdrop in order to prevent too much light spilling on the background. [figure 1]

    We then set up a 39"x72" LitePanel with a black/white fabric attached (black side facing the light). We then placed it next to the OctoDome to further keep light from spilling onto the background. [figure 2]

    TIP: The easiest way to ensure that your LitePanel is in the right place is to look through the camera while your assistant positions it.

     

     

    After we had our OctoDome and LitePanel positioned, we took our first shot. [figure 3]

     

    Figure 3

     

    Notice how well the OctoDome lights our subject. The light is soft, yet directional and is very flattering for our model.

    Adding a Grid Spot
    Next, we decided to add some drama to the background, so we decided to create a hard streak of light skimming along the muslin diagonally. We set up a StarFlash 300 strobe, attached a 6-inch reflector and medium (40-degree) grid to it, and placed the light right against the backdrop, about ten feet off the ground. We then pointed it down around 70 degrees and angled it slightly toward the backdrop. [figures 4 & 5]

     

     

    Once this light was in place, we took another shot. [figure 6]

     

    Figure 6

     

    As you can see, this background light helped to spice up the background somewhat. Since the StarFlash had a reflector on it, we didn’t have to worry about any light spilling onto our model or any other part of our set. We did need to add a grid, however, in order to prevent the light from being too bright where it was closest to the backdrop.

    Bouncing the Main Light
    In reviewing this image, we felt that the model’s legs were just a bit too dark. We wanted to add some light to this area, but we didn’t want to alter the overall lighting scheme. Our solution was to add a 39"x39" LitePanel with a white fabric attached, and position it under the OctoDome, angled slightly to bounce some light from the OctoDome onto the legs of our model. [figures 7 & 8]

     

     

    Once the LitePanel was in position, we took another shot. [figure 9]

     

    Figure 9

     

    The change in lighting was subtle yet noticeable, and it was exactly what we were looking for.

    As you can see, two lights and a reflector can provide natural-looking results for beautiful home or studio portraits. Next, we decided to move the lights around to create another interesting image using the same StarFlash 150 and StarFlash 300.

    Below is a comparative look at the results for this shot. [figure 10]

     

    Figure 10

     

    Same Gear, Different Positioning
    While the model changed outfits, we pulled out the LitePanels and background light and left the 5-foot OctoDome to be repositioned. We ended up placing the OctoDome at about 130 degrees camera left to serve as a full-length rim light. For a final touch, we brought in a foot stool and draped another muslin over it. We also draped it over the majority of the background muslin for added contrast. [figures 11 & 12]

     

     

    When the model was back on the set, we had her put one foot on the stool, put her hands on her hips and look into the camera. When the pose looked good, we took a shot. [figure 13]

     

    Figure 13

     

    As you can see, the OctoDome created a beautiful rim light from head to toe on our model. In reviewing the background, however, we noticed that we had a little too much light spilling onto the muslin, which we wanted to keep relatively dark.

    Controlling Spill on a Rim Light
    To prevent the light from spilling onto the backdrop, we once again used the 39"x72" LitePanel. [figure 14 & 15]

     

     

    Once the LitePanel was in place, we took another shot. [figure 16]

     

    Figure 16

     

    In the result, notice how well the LitePanel was able to control the light spill.

    Adding a Main Light After the Rim Light
    Next, we wanted to add our main light into the mix. We decided to use a StarFlash 300 with a medium HalfDome for a relatively narrow lighting effect. We positioned the HalfDome at about 80 degrees camera right, close to seven feet high, and pointed it down at about a 45 degree angle. [figures 17 and 18].

     

     

    We then turned off our OctoDome in order to concentrate solely on the light coming from the HalfDome. We had the HalfDome positioned around camera right because we wanted to get a “loop lighting pattern” on our subject, which can be very flattering. A “loop lighting pattern” is created when the lighting creates a downward diagonal shadow from the nose, angling toward the corner of the mouth. Ideally, the shadow will be halfway between the nose and the corner of the mouth.

    When we had the HalfDome where we wanted it, we took another shot. [figure 19]

     

    Figure 19

     

    As you can see, the HalfDome alone provided a very beautiful, soft light for our model.

    Bouncing from the Rim Light
    To balance out the lighting tonally, we decided to add a little more light onto the front of the model's pants. So again, we placed the 39"x39" LitePanel down low and angled it to bounce light from the OctoDome. [figures 20 & 21]

     

     

    With this second LitePanel in place, and the rim light turned back on, we took our final shot. [figure 22]

     

    Figure 22

     

    Notice how well the lighting from the HalfDome ties in with the lighting from the OctoDome. Below is a side-by-side look at each of the results for this set-up. [figure 23]

     

    Figure 23

     

    As you can see, the 5-foot OctoDome is an incredibly versatile lighting tool when used with any of the StarFlash strobes. It creates a very soft, beautiful light that is perfect for portraiture.

    Remember to experiment with your lighting, and above all, have fun!

     


    Equipment Used:

    Camera/Media

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